By guest bloggers Tim and Stacey

Tim and Stacey…the guest bloggers!

We began this journey beyond excited; excited to see Greg and Linda and excited for our first non resort trip without the children in a decade.   So ready to experience Thailand we board the newest member of Emirates fleet for the 18 hour flight. Next stop, Bangkok and a reunion with our friends in The Hangover Suite at Lebua State Tower.  Remember this? Imagine landing more than halfway around the globe to be surrounded by smiling people, hands poised fingertip to fingertip at their chin saying hello in a melodic voice; sa wa de ka.

Thailand is a Buddhist nation, and because Buddhist values are such a part of daily life here, temples, monasteries and Buddha images are seen everywhere.  75% of the population is ethnic Thai and 14% Thai Chinese; a pretty homogenous culture by US standards.   95% of the kingdom practices Buddhism and religious tolerance and acceptance is widespread. Buddhism, plays a huge role in every day society. There are three main Buddhist values: respect, self-control, and a non-confrontational attitude. Showing anger towards others or telling lies are both very shameful acts in this country.  A palpable playfulness among the Thai people can be felt almost immediately.

Bangkok is the capitol and most densely populated city in Thailand with about 12 million people, supposedly up to 20 million in the Metro area counting un-documented.  It is exotic and chaotic; a controlled chaos.  Where else do Temples, palaces, massage and go go’s exist side by side?  Bangkok comes at you in flashes of color, light and smells.  A city that bustles throughout the day but truly comes alive at night. The Asian investment boom of the 1980s and 1990s brought many multinational corporations to make their regional headquarters in Bangkok and the city is now a regional force in finance, business, global politics, culture, fashion and entertainment.

Skybar, It’s a must

Our first night in Bangkok we are stolen by the city.  We meet up with the Diamonds, newly arrived from Chiang Mai and the hotel.  Hugs and kisses and more hugs and kisses, they looked great after months of travel and greeted us with cocktails in the Hangover suite high above Bangkok. Many toasts, updates of friends, family travels and joyous laughter.  We migrated to the Sky Bar atop the tower of our hotel home of the famous scene from Hangover II where Mr. Chow gets arrested.  Then, under the guidance of cruise director Linda we ventured to Soi Cowboy for a taste of Bangkok nightlife.  The city is pulsing and alive, as we Tuk Tuk through the neon lit streets.  Arriving Soi Cowboy we are bombarded by densely populated go-go bars with girls out front inviting you in.  We huddled up at an Irish Bar, comforted to find Guinness on Tap.  Once fortified with Guinness we  walk down the street surveying the Go-Go scene. There is definitely, as Linda put it, a Creepy Old Man presence in the area as well as bars catering to the “Lady boys”.  Lady boy’s are attracted to Greg like a white marlin is attracted to a mullet dredge or Dave Lindy to a ice cold Miller Product.  We decided to go into a bar to see what it was like and encountered an amazing blues-rock band that could play note for note Clapton, Santana and Dire Straits.  The girls all seem happy and once it was obvious that we were not there for their companionship they were content to engage us in casual conversation.  We bought them drinks, Linda and Stacey discussed undergarment choices while watching new customers come in and older customers come down from upstairs all the while listening classic rock.   The set-up had its hierarchy; the big Chief middle-aged man with a large jade ring who handled all the money in the joint with his pocket calculator (there is one at every establishment in Thailand) his two lieutenants, an older Mama san, a Lady boy (who quickly was rubbing Greg’s neck).  This big Chief clearly ruled the dance and wait staff.  After experiencing the Go-Go bars we moved on to a dance club and a few other bars around town before turning in for the night to prepare for a big day touring the town.

Day two after a chill waterfront meal in Asiatique (a bustling harbor, along the Chao Phraya River- think Navy Pier on steroids) why wouldn’t the logical activity be midnight fish pedicures and foot massages?

Stacey is giggling away!

babies on mopeds for locals, helmets on us. who’s needs more protection?

We toured the city on a long boat, by bicycle, Tuk Tuk, ferry, taxi and  Skytrain, exploring Wats (temples) the Palace grounds, Buddahs, night markets, Chinatown, ‘looking looking’, Flower markets, narrow alleys, public parks, shopping malls and street after street of food.   We ride through street after street of homes no larger than our SUV (Literally) and wonder skeptically of our existence/happiness ratio.  There is an incredible attention to detail, the Temples we all hand painted in vivid colors all the way to the ceiling.  Great Respect paid to all building represented by spirit houses that are found in front of most building.  Seeing all the stray animals along our ride makes us realize, embarrassingly, that we spend more on our pets in a year than the average Thai family spends on a child. Bangkok is a major city with some interesting sights to see but still is an large city with it own pulse and be able to obtain anything including not be duplicated matching New Years Eve outfits.  As with all else in Thai culture, there is an ease to their transportation.  You want to take a boat, get on the next boat, a tuk tuk appears at every turn, hop in.  No problem.

last minute costume change, no malfunctions

NYE- Decked out in our ‘matchy matchy’ with ‘no Cheap Charlie’ outfits we hit the town. As we’d quickly learned, one never knows where a night in Bangkok will take them.  By dawn we’d obtained the coveted Q Bar table by the DJ, lost one shoe, a purse, three people had tried on Greg’s jacket and the baby was returned (yes, there was a 3 am baby incident), run out of Bahts at a Volkswagen Bar, been boo’d off a stage undeservedly , narrowly avoided a bar brawl, enjoyed ringing in the New Year on the other side of the world

New Years Day and we were off to the airport, next destination, Phuket.  Patong Beach, the central party town on Phuket’s west coast.  Largely recovered from the Tsunami, Patong beach is famous for it’s nightlife and the many soi’s of Bangla Road.  By day the beaches teemed with tourists and locals selling anything your heart could desire, by night the streets came alive with lights and sounds and SMELLS (one can not describe the pungent vile odors that waft from the sewer grates).  Restaurants appeared on the sidewalks (Which are basically fish markets and aquariums with live crabs, lobsters, and fish) , music played loudly from Tuk Tuks dancing with lights.  Bar girls and lady boys beckoned you to their clubs.  The national sport of Thailand is  Muay Thai (a native form of kickboxing, incorporating kicks, elbows, hands, and knees.) and  by day the streets rolled with vehicles blaring music and carrying boxers promoting ‘Real’ Muay Thai tonight.

Patong or Ping Pong, same same

The mantra of Patong Beach was ‘mai pen rai’ – which translates roughly to ‘It doesn’t matter’ or ‘Don’t worry, be happy”, because not much seemed to matter there it was all “same same’ “only different”.  ‘Same same’ is a funny saying all the locals say as if to compare things.  The problem is when comparing sunglasses or negotiating a price for a Tuk Tuk ride its not the same byt they just keep repeating the saying.  Patong brought many surprises.  Elephants bathing by the side of the road, Expats, loads of Russian and Australian tourists, lots of Speedos, beach massages and pedicures.  The Thais are big on pedicures and massages, I never thought I would get tired of being asked if I want a beach massage.  Everything is available from beach vendors from fresh squeezed juice, fruit, spring rolls, corn on the cob, some kind of grilled egg thing, etc.

Think Greg will be jealous? This sweet elephant is 3 years old.

After three days in Patong we reached the true point of departure. Upon arrival in Phuket, none of us knew where we’d head next. Flying by the seat of our pants; we hope to be, that is once we obsessively searched Trip Advisor and Google every detail of our destination decision and maintain conversations with little English, sketchy wifi, time zones and phone service long enough to complete a transaction.  Five hours later, we’re off!

Phi Phi/Krabi

no photoshop needed

After a brief stop at the 7 Eleven for provisions (Seaweed flavored Pringles anyone?)

Yup. Seaweed.

and we’re boarding a power boat (luggage and all) for the Phi Phi islands.  Departing amidst working fishing vessels in a dirty port we left Phuket for the hour ride east to explore the green waters of the islands and do some snorkeling.  As previously stated, if you seek it, it shall appear; all is effortless in Thailand.   We turned into a cove and asked about monkeys, only to be brought bow first into a grove of monkeys eager to take the bananas from our hands.  It was picturesque day on the water, silhouettes of Thai Long boats, islands appearing out of the horizon.  Our crew was capable and friendly, no GPS or Charts just a compass and 30 years on the water for the captain to get us to where we were going next.   Lunch in Phi Phi Don weans us into the mellowness and more monkeys,  another boat ride east brings us around the tip of Krabi Provence and to the shores of Railay east (thankfully at high tide) where we are greeted once again by the sweetest of people to show us eagerly to our home for the next few days.

What do Maggie and Ben have to say about their new sibling?

Krabi was truly a delight!  Every whim was exceeded at the turn of the corner. What you didn’t know you desired materialized right in front of your eyes.  Camaraderie was instantly forged with the locals.   Observing life in this remote region of SE Asia was truly a gift.   No cars or vehicles, all obscured by the limestone outcroppings shutting this part of Krabi off from the mainland.  A haven to climbers from all over the world, this hamlet seemed to attract a select, mellow group of like-minded travelers from all over the globe, all intent on invisibility.  A scene unlike anything describable or witnessed elsewhere.  It had the far reaching chill of St. Barts and the hipness of SOBE with an understated mellowness only to be found in the remoteness and beauty of SE Asia.   The beauty was overwhelming!  Every day, swimming in the warm green waters, gazing hazily upon the outcroppings as far as the eye could see was comforting.

Sunset is an activity here.  The world stops to watch the beauty.  On our last night we kayaked to the next cove to check out the beach of Tong Sai and were immediately engulfed in a beach full of intricately entwined bars and restaurants offering the chillest and most entertaining of times.  Only to be capped off by a sunset paddle home with the amusement of cliff divers, parachuting over our kayaks,

Jenga!

a blazing sunset, shoeless dinner with a fantastic  guitar/singer entertaining us for hours to be followed by a fire show to crazy Skrillix dub step to lead once again to the most welcoming of places the “Why Knot” bar  and beckoning us for yet another round of Jenga, connect four or other bar games. Restaurants and bars literally entwined with the lush geography and it’s inhabitants- think a bamboo ladder nailed to a tree behind the bar/coffee shop that leads to a tree house loft where the staff most likely sleeps at night.

Paradise

Railay Beach in the Krabi Provence is dreamlike and otherworldly, with limestone outcroppings rising to the skyline.  Once ashore the other-worldliness continues with hospitable locals, the most beautiful beaches and every amenity one could desire at their fingertip.  Longboats anchor beachfront serving food in the style of American food trucks. The walk to the beach was filled with secret caves, hiking trails to hidden lagoons and monkeys every day!!!

No she didn’t, photo bombed again

We have a newfound respect for composing these blog posts, respecting the cultures of others, smiling at those around you and for G & L and all they endeavor while traveling in this great world.  Greg and Linda are doing amazing after months of travel together and it was a pleasure to travel with them and get a peek into their passion of experiencing new cultures, people and lands.  We treasure your perspective.  Back in the states we smile frequently, recalling the beauty and effortless appeasement that is Thailand.  Our world seems smaller, but not diminished.  So adopting the Thai perspective is a goal; see the beauty in pleasing others.

FOR MORE PHOTOS: – Bangkok, Phuket (Patong), Krabi (Railay Beach) with the Wills